For far too long, denim has been a sartorial no-no when it comes to talking about—and dressing for—golf. Despite the taboo, denim-inspired accessories, polos, and headwear have been determinedly infiltrating the golf style space. On the driving range, it isn’t uncommon to see a player hitting a few balls in jeans and a tee shirt, perhaps after coming straight after work now that post-pandemic, professional dress codes are more relaxed. The denim trend captures the grunge and attitude of the 90s, while carrying the American classicism and work ethic associated with the weave. All of these values, perhaps paradoxically, make it prime for golf; we’re seeing golf brands like Radmor strutting into the denim market, as well as classic jeans companies like Lee taking a swing at golf apparel—not to mention the internet-breaking Jimmy Choo x Malbon collaboration that created a capsule of golfers’ accessories in a monogrammed designer denim.

To help you get a lay of the land, we’ve rounded up some of the coolest, boldest, and most newsworthy examples of the golf denim takeover, from a Ralph Lauren denim Dopp kit to recycled denim sunglasses, plus a jean jacket take on the caddie suit. But first, if you will bear with us, here is a brief survey of the history of golf and dress codes which provide context for the current golf dress code debate/culture wars for which denim has found itself the poster pant. A few facts might surprise you, or at least unfold a different perspective.

What is denim? Denim is a kind of fabric, meaning that it’s a specific material, weave, and dye: a firm, sturdy cotton is woven in a twill style and dyed, traditionally, indigo. This means that if your club bans “denim” it’s not technically also banning other kinds of cotton fabrics, like your cozy pique knit polos or chambray, the light blue, soft weave easily mistaken for denim that might even, incorrectly, earn you a dress code violation. Though it's a symbol of American spirit and ingenuity, denim was invented in Nîmes, France, in the 17th century, about 400 years after the first recorded example of a “dress code” and about 200 years after the sport as we know it (ish) was invented in Scotland.

The classic, stereotypical golf uniform we usually think of when we think of historic golf reruns harkens back to the sport’s 15th century Highland origins, when cold, unruly temperatures dictated players be covered and protected, ideally in the heritage tweeds, plaids, and wools (hello, knickerboxers!) that were common at the time, on and off the links—the exception being the quotidian top hats, completely impractical for wind and swinging, opting instead for the iconic “flat cap.”

In the centuries since, the typical golf dress code has undergone many transitions, usually due to safety concerns, practicality, and comfort levels. For example, during the 1933 U.S. Open, when a heat wave struck the nation, players felt they could no longer play well wearing the traditional suit and tie, which was already on the outs, and opted instead for lighter, looser fabrics, paving the way for today’s shorts, polos, and skirts.

Speaking of women’s style, the first documented tournament, which took place in 1811, saw women playing in their everyday looks; what today might be a tee and jeans was, for them, long skirts (covering the scandalous ankles and shins, of course!) as well as hats, to keep their hair in place lest they appear at all undone publicly. By the 1920s, inspired by women’s tennis styles, golfers finally began shortening their skirt lengths to allow for greater freedom of movement. (And it’s worth noting that golf’s codes have historically expanded beyond golf, even barring women and players of color from enjoying the game; segregation wasn’t illegal until the 1950s, and, interestingly, academic dress codes didn’t become legal until the Supreme Court’s 1969 ruling. Of course, informal or posted dress codes in private clubs have always been legal, though the intent has often been one of hostile, even racist or sexist exclusivity.)

Today, golf style has continued to adapt to the technology available, with the aims of keeping the sport just as fashionable, functional, and comfortable. In this century, the sneaker revolution has brought upon a buzzy genre of hybrid or dressy (even wingtipped) golf sneakers, and synthetic fabrics have allowed for greater waterproof, sweat-wicking, and stretch properties—though, these are mostly petroleum-based, made from plastics, at the expense of the environment, including the very golf courses we play on. In this case, denim as a fabric is much closer to the original hearty textiles and natural color palettes of yesteryear’s golfers. Besides, denim can be produced without chemicals, using organic ingredients, that are healthier and safer for golf courses in the long term.

So, if it’s alleged tradition or practicality at the heart of your course’s dress code, perhaps it’s worth an amendment. And, yes, if it’s pouring rain, jeans are not the most practical. Then, golfers can happily lean on the waterproof trousers in their repertoire, ideally spun with recycled synthetics. But on a mild sunny day, the kind golfers dream about, perhaps it’s worth taking another look at the ban on denim—plus the reasons for having a dress code in the first place.

In the meantime, here are some innovative, clever, and downright cheeky takes on denim golf attire, some in small accessories so you can simply test-drive the trend and see how it feels. Like a great pair of jeans, it just might get even better with every wear.