Risk and reward in Tunica
Golf, gambling converge in northwest Mississippi
Water is obviously a big part of the experience at Tunica National. But don't forget the wind, which comes tearing across the cotton fields, largely unhindered by trees.
A "rovin' gambler" inhabits the final verse of Bob Dylan's classic "Highway 61 Revisited," a troublemaking type who conspires to start the "next world war" out of boredom. That's an unlikely state for a gambler, rovin' or otherwise, along Highway 61 these days. You'll drive no more than 35 minutes south of Memphis on that route before hitting the casino complexes of Tunica (pronounced TOON-ick-a), Miss., with 'round-the-clock wagering and three pretty good golf courses.
The newest is Tunica National Golf & Tennis ($58 with cart, tunicanational.com), a Mark McCumber design that opened in 2004. Although the course sits on a former cotton field, it was molded into interesting (but natural) shapes and complemented with a ton of water. You can get wet on 14 holes, and when a three-club wind whips across the largely treeless region (as it often does), these hazards will get inside your head.
Cottonwoods ($89, grandcasinotunica.com) could be the area's best, a **** Hale Irwin layout with mounding reminiscent of Tunica National's but with less water and trickier, multi-level greens. The biggest challenge lurks at No. 15, a 445-yard dogleg with a tiny landing area and a long approach over a ravine.
River Bend Links ($60, riverbendlinks.com ) is the gentlest of the area's three courses, somewhat sheltered from the wind by a wall of oak trees.
STAY HERE
Choose from more than 6,300 hotel rooms and nine casinos. Hollywood Casino ($209, weekend nights)--next to River Bend Links--takes its theme seriously, with movie memorabilia everywhere. The Terrace at Grand Casino Resort ($500 for two nights in June) overlooks Cottonwoods and offers a quieter alternative. Many area hotels offer discounted stay-and-play packages. You'll have to phone them for details.
VISIT HERE
Elvis Presley's Memphis home, Graceland, is a must see. Set aside a couple of hours ($25-$68, elvis.com) and soak it all in: the car collection, the home movies, the custom jets, the shag carpet! Don't be surprised to see some of your fellow tourists getting teary at the King's gravesite.
EAT HERE
The Gold Strike Casino's mahogany-lined Chicago Steakhouse is tops for fine dining. But you have to visit the Blue & White Restaurant, a classic diner about 15 minutes down Highway 61. Its specialty: homemade donuts that put Krispy Kreme to shame.
TRAVEL ADVISORY
Ninety-five percent of Tunica's 15 million annual visitors arrive by car, many of them from Atlanta (seven hours) or even Chicago (nine hours). Feel like flying?
The Memphis International Airport is 35 minutes away, and tiny Tunica Airport has undergone an extensive remodeling and expansion and plans to offer commercial service in the future.
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