Trump's Scottish Extravaganza

By John Huggan
Photos By Jeff J. Mitchell/Getty Images March 14, 2008

It is, by unanimous acclaim, a spectacular and unforgettable piece of property. Ten miles north of Aberdeen in Scotland's often bleak and windswept northeast corner, the Menie Estate at Balmedie contains a vivid mass of towering dunesland hard by the North Sea that, given the chance, will surely reveal a memorable and exciting example of classic links golf. "You could only screw it up," says 1999 British Open champion and native Aberdonian Paul Lawrie, neatly summing up the feelings of seemingly everyone lucky enough to have viewed the land that may or may not become the Trump International Golf Links, Scotland.

The key word in all of the above, of course, is "Trump," as in billionaire property tycoon Donald, as in, typically, controversy. Half Scottish on his mother's side -- the late Mary MacLeod lived the first 20 years of her life in the town of Stornoway on the Isle of Lewis, the largest and most northerly of the Outer Hebridean chain off the northwest coast of the mainland -- Trump has so far spent almost 2½ years battling to build what would be his first major golf project outside North America, one he, understated as ever, quickly labeled "the greatest course in the world."

Photo: Newsline Scotland Press Agency

So far, at least, it has been an arduous process. Since October 2005, when Trump first talked to Scotland's then First Minister, Jack McConnell, about the possibility of doing business in his mother's homeland, the proposed $2.1 billion development -- which hopes to incorporate two 18-hole courses, 500 houses, a 450-room hotel, 950 vacation homes and 36 golf villas -- has faced various obstacles, both ecological and political. A healthy level of cynicism from sections of the Caledonian golf community only has added to the project's difficulties.

The fear among some Scots is this: Rather than focus on building a great golf course with compelling shot values, the priority might be selling expensive real estate. That is not to suggest The Donald's portfolio of courses (see sidebar) does not contain success stories. "One of the tests I always apply to a course is how many holes I can remember afterward," says Scottish tour pro Catriona Matthew, speaking of Trump International, site of the LPGA's ADT Championship. "[That's a course] I could recall all 18 the first time around. I can't say that about many of the courses we play." [Editor's note: Calls to interview Trump for this story were not returned.]

In Scotland, a largely working-class nation, high-end estates invariably are subjected to a kind of reverse snobbery and are, perversely, looked down upon. Especially when they are being built by outspoken Americans, who falsely claim that the Outer Hebrides are "seriously Scotch." (Scotch is a drink, not a nationality.) Still, Trump does seem to be listening. The original architect attached to the project, Tommy (nephew of Tom) Fazio, has been replaced -- on the recommendation of Royal & Ancient GC chief executive Peter Dawson -- by one steeped in the lore of links golf, Martin Hawtree.

"It is a spectacular spot and the finest untouched dune site I have ever seen," enthuses Hawtree, who previously has worked to wide acclaim on the likes of Royal Birkdale, Carnoustie and Portmarnock. "I won't have to do a lot to retain the obvious qualities of the place. A lot of the holes are already there, in the sense that all we have to do is cut the grass. Whatever, we will have an exceptional layout.

"Trump, too, is excited by the golf course," Hawtree continues. "He won't be building lots of high-end homes around a mediocre course. It's no secret he wants the Open Championship. And the course is good enough. There is plenty of room for the infrastructure that goes with an Open -- car parks, tented villages and all the rest. So it has a lot going for it."