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A Player, Politician and Musician

(A three-part series.)

Please see the two previous posts below for Part 1: The Player, Billy Andrade and Part 2: The Politician, Governor Haley Barbour.

Part 3: The Musician, Paul Overstreet

Last year my musical moments included: White Stripes at Madison Square Garden, Dylan at Woodstock, Springsteen in New Jersey and the Beastie Boys in Brooklyn.

In 2008 it's Paul Overstreet in a private cigar bar in Jackson, Mississippi.

Who?

Overstreet_final_3 Admittedly, I asked the same thing when I found out Overstreet would be one of my playing partners in the pro-am of the Viking Classic at Annandale Golf Club in Madison, Miss. Curious, I Googled him. With a touch of country in my past and still passing through my veins, I was impressed.

A two-time Grammy Award-winning singer and song writer, Overstreet has written or co-written "Forever and Ever Amen" (Randy Travis), "When You Say Nothing At All" (Alison Krauss), "Love Can Build A Bridge" (Judds) and "She Thinks My Tractor's Sexy" (Kenny Chesney), just to name just a few.

Clearly, on stage or in a music studio, Overstreet's a plus five handicap. On the golf course he's an 18 with some pieces of equipment in his bag so old, "They may be appreciating," noted one observer.

You can put the cowboy in golf attire, but it doesn't mean it will fit like a pair of old chaps. "I'm much more comfortable in a cowboy hat than a golf hat," says Overstreet. "I own and ride horses at my home in Nashville and I'm used to working with them. Golf is an entirely different animal."

Overstreet started playing golf when he was 25. After he got married and started having his four kids, he had to shut it down. "Now that the kids are older, and can play with me, I'm playing again but, man, I have a lot of work to do," says Overstreet.

As I mentioned in the two previous posts below, it was an honor and enlightening to get the opportunity to talk golf with Billy Andrade, politics with Governor Haley Barbour and music with Paul Overstreet.

Influences on his work: "I loved Hank Williams, Sr. as a songwriter. I liked Jim Croce's acoustic sound and I was a big fan Credence Clearwater Revival. I've always thought it was interesting Fogerty never sang any love songs."

On writing songs: "I set appointments to write. I prepare for it and set meetings with people to get together and work on songs." He wouldn't say a song is spontaneous inspiration but at these appointments he sets, "I usually have something in the back of my mind."

The light bulb moment that he could be a musician: "I was 18, working as a mechanic's assistant in Waco, Texas. I went to see Tanya Tucker and Johnny Rodriguez. They got up there and played some good music but they didn't put on much of a show. I thought, 'Hell, I can do that.'"

Ten years after he saw Tucker and Rodriguez at the concert in Waco, Overstreet worked with Tucker on a song. "That was special for me," says Overstreet. "Everything had come full circle at that point."

After our round of golf, the state of Mississippi's Director of Tourism, Craig Ray, coordinated with a local radio show host, Bo Bounds, and the owner of the Habana Smoke Shoppe, Ralph Foster, to have Overstreet play a few songs for a crowd of about 25 people. Something he doesn't do very often.

Overstreet sat at a poker table, smoked a $45 cigar, sipped some of Foster's 30 year-old scotch and played some of his favorite songs. He sang "Forever and Ever Amen" and "When You Say Nothing At All." When he broke into "She Only Loves Me For My Willie," the crowd joined in.

He's played for a lot of powerful people over the years. When George H. W. Bush (#41) asked him to play in some remote town when he was on his campaign trail, Overstreet flew all day, transferred from small plane to small plane several times to get there. "I don't remember where I ended up but that was a long way to go to only play 20 minutes of music," said Overstreet. "I enjoyed meeting him and getting to know him. I hate small planes but they told me he asked for me, which was probably just B.S. to get me to make the trip. I just figured, anything for my country."

Our pro-am team, made up of these three experts in their particular fields, finished middle of the pack. I thought the Governor summarized the day the best. As we pulled our carts around to the front of the clubhouse, the valet attendant asked Barbour how it went out there. "Well, it was a great day to be alive and we were all good sports."

--Matty G.

A Player, Politician and Musician

(A three-part series.)

Please see the post below for Part 1: The Player, Billy Andrade.

Part 2: The Politician, Governor Haley Barbour


As we pulled up to the second tee of Annandale Gold Club in Madison, Miss. it was time for the group picture. The photographer took charge. Appropriately, he directed Haley Barbour to the far right of the frame.

Barbour_final Barbour's serving his second term as the Republican Governor of Mississippi. Barbour has white hair, which was a stark contrast to his all black attire. He had to be hot on this steamy southern day.

"If the Governor's on the right, then I should be on the far left," said our pro, Billy Andrade. Barbour laughed, and with a stiff southern drawl, told us about playing with David Duval a few years ago. "He was also a democrat. All he wanted to do was talk politics," said Barbour.

"I think David and I are the only two democrats on tour," said Andrade.

For this particular pro-am, the Governor didn't have to pull many strings to get his first choice of pros to play with. He chose Andrade because the rumor was Andrade was a great playing partner. As I pointed out in the post below, the Governor was right again.

For a guy who stands as far right both politically and for our team picture--he sure hits it left a lot.

That didn't matter. Our team was quick to give him a playability pardon. Barbour has had more important things on his agenda than the game of golf.

I don't have to tell you about Hurricane Katrina, but I will tell you that in Mississippi she claimed 231 lives, left thousands homeless and knocked out one of the state's big bread winners, the multi-billion dollar casino industry that is located along the Gulf Coast.

Barbour hadn't played golf since the 2007 pro-am of the Viking Classic, but he's an athlete, a former catcher at Ole Miss, and even with a bad back, he was able to scrape together a few pars.

It turns out our scorer, sweet like the iced-tea they serve in the south; Shirley Neal grew up with the Governor in Yazoo City. She reminded Barbour that he used to call her "Scooter." He also played softball with her husband. "I remember he was competitive," said Neal.

It didn't take long to figure out Barbour is well liked by the locals. He signed a lot more autographs than Andrade, but he also got a lot of hugs and hand shakes. No doubt they appreciate his leadership through the toughest of times.

Barbour snapped another one into the deep rough on the left. As he approached his ball, and the marshal tending to the hole recognized him, I overheard the marshal tell another marshal, "Hell, if I knew that was the Guvna's ball, I woulda kicked it back into the fairway."

As I said in the first post, I talked golf with Andrade and politics with the politician of our group.

After Katrina, Barbour became known for an inspiring quote. I'm told it wasn't what he said; it was how he said it. "The goal is to rebuild the coast back like it can be, rather than simply like it was." Barbour was, and still is, determined to get Mississippi back in the saddle of prosperity. He has until 2011, when his second term is up, to finish the job. He was discussed as a candidate, first as President, and then as a possible McCain running mate. But the Governor has always said that he's still on "hurricane duty" and would prefer to not leave his people or his post.

Here's what the Governor said about the hurricane and a fellow Governor from Alaska:

Getting through Katrina:
"It was the worst natural disaster in the history of this country. We made it up as we went along. What impressed me was the character of the people. They got knocked down flat, but the next day they picked up their britches and went to work."

The status of Mississippi three years after Katrina: "The population is back to 95 percent of what it used to be. By the coast it's still a little snaggletoothed, but we'll get there. It won't be tomorrow, but we'll get there."

On Sarah Palin: "I like her. What you see is what you get. She's likeable, she's smart and she knows a hell of a lot about energy."

Mackenzie_1 Will McKenzie won the Viking Classic at Annandale last Sunday. My boy, Andrade, finished T70. I have to admit, I watched the Ryder Cup. America and golf got a much-needed victory, but pardon me for a graph or two. I've been inspired to rant about another guy who can't hit it straight.

The next time a storm rolls through the Gulf Coast, and Governor Barbour is looking for a big bag of sand to try and stop the flooding, I offer up Phil Mickelson. I'm sorry. I'm a Mickelson fan, but in my modest financial profile, right now his stock is worth a penny less than Lehman Brothers. It's one thing to blow a U.S. Open, call yourself "an idiot" and sign autographs for an hour right before you over-tip the locker room staff. Which is what Mickelson did at Winged Foot in 2006. I actually bragged on his behalf for that.

I don't even care if he leaves the long stick out of his bag to try and tackle Torrey Pines, which is what he did at the U.S. Open this year. That's head scratching strategy on his own time, and costs him his own dime.

Mickelson But the next time Mickelson's playing for us, his country, I ask that he packs the perma-grin, greasy hat-head and bobble nod in the dimple of a Holmes golf ball, right before Holmes makes impact with a driver.

The reason why our national basketball team won the gold this year was not because we had a team of professionals, it's because we had a team of professionals who refused to lose. Am I crazy if I want to see fist pumping, but if you miss a shot, I want to see head hanging? I'm OK with bag kicking, club tossing crowd rousing golf. Curse under your breath, but just loud enough so I can hear it. Smile when you win but scowl if you suck. And then take your God-given talent, and play better. Make me believe you care more than me, because you can actually have an impact on the outcome.

The greatest thing about a Ryder Cup is not just the format (why isn't the Fed Ex Cup match play?) The Ryder Cup gives us the human side of the robots we see on most Sundays of watching the PGA Tour. Last week golf got to know some rising stars: Anthony Kim, Hunter Mahan, Ian Poulter, Robert Karlsson, Justin Rose, J.B. Holmes and Boo Weekley. Unfortunately, golf learned a little more about Phil Mickelson. The fact that he has lumbered away with only three and a half points in his last 16 Ryder Cup matches makes me think his spot would've been better served by a guy with rocks the size of Rocco's. To steal a line from Obama (sorry Governor Barbour, I'm leaning a little left myself) "ENOUGH!" Come on Phil, you're better than that.

In two years, when it comes time to fill out another Ryder Cup roster, if our next captain's looking for a little grit and grind and some old-fashioned leadership, I offer up Governor Haley Barbour. Even if he still has a bad case of the lefts, he'd be better than Lefty. Especially if Barbour lines the fairways with his Mississippi marshals and their loyal foot wedges.

To Be Continued.

Part 3: The Musician, Paul Overstreet.

--Matty G.

A Player, Politician and Musician

(A three-part series.)

Part 1: The Player, Billy Andrade

Last Wednesday I played golf with a tour pro, a politician and a musician. Experts in their field, they also birdied the categories: class, camaraderie and sportsmanship.

It was the Wednesday pro-am of the Viking Classic at Annandale Golf Club in Madison, Miss. Designed by Jack Nicklaus, Annandale, which is private, opened in 1981. It's a par 72 and tips out at 7,177 yards. Like most courses on tour, Annandale featured narrow fairways, long rough and fast greens. I shook like Shakira when I had to hit my first tee shot in front of a gallery.

Considering the event was up against the Ryder Cup, it had a solid field (Daly, Duval and Toms were a decent draw) and for the first time, Commissioner Tim Finchem stopped by. He participated in a cooking demonstration on Wednesday afternoon. He made a delicious Chinese dish, but he served cardboard on the plate of personality. Poor guy, he tried. I wondered if his visit to Mississippi was less about culinary class and more about circling the sponsorship wagons during a turbulent economy.

Andrade_final_2 My pro was Billy Andrade. In covering golf and golfers for 13 years, Andrade joins Annika, Ernie and Arnie as my favorites.

Andrade had a successful amateur career before he turned pro in 1987. He played for Wake Forest on an Arnold Palmer Scholarship and helped lead the Demon Deacons to an NCAA title in 1986. He has four professional wins, three top 10s in majors, and over $12 million in career earnings. Although he's ranked 573rd in the world, behind Francois Calmels and Mikko Korhonen, Andrade is still decorated in endorsements.

In 1991, Andrade and Brad Faxon won the Charles Bartlett Award for their "unselfish contributions to society." I'll tell you how cool this cat is; Andrade mentioned that through various events and over the course of ten years, he and Faxon have helped raise $20 million for charity, but he only said that in the context of a conversation about the actor Michael J. Fox. Andrade felt inferior to Fox, who he said has raised over $120 million for the fight against Parkinson's disease (Fox was diagnosed with the disease in 1991 at the age of 30). But I can assure you; As impressive and inspiring as Fox is, Andrade is no slouch in the giving category.

He and his caddie, Mark Zyons (Andrade called him "Ziggy"), figured yardage, passed out swing tips, helped pick clubs, looked for lost balls, of which there were many, read putts and asked questions about our lives and families. I have best friends who wouldn't do any of those things for me.

I know what you're thinking, and it's not that I need new friends. You're thinking, that's what Andrade and all the other pros should do. Yes, I agree to some degree, but they don't have to. And most pros are opting for the "don't have to" loophole lately. Not Andrade and Zyons. Andrade gets "it." And we all appreciated "it." [For the purpose of this story, the definition of "it" is: Realizing you've made an obscene amount of money playing a sport for a living and are willing to give back with time, energy and acts of unselfishness.]

I've played with Mickelson, who has freakish, bionic golf skills. Andrade is a different type of pro. Andrade's the type who looks like a P.E. teacher but just happens to have a huge competitive heart and has overachieved his way to a plus-3 handicap.

Andrade has medium tour length (averages 283 yards off the tee); hits it solid and straight almost every time, but has struggled with the putter the last few years. I'm told it used to be the other way around; he used to be a better putter than ball-striker. Last week he was using the claw, a putting stroke made famous by Mark Calcavecchia and Chris DiMarco. I asked how long he's been using that grip on the greens. "I've been going back-and-forth," he said. Which is never a good sign, but he still managed to make four birdies.

Some of the best anecdotes he told us about his career in golf:

Playing with the Bear. It was 1987 and Andrade's first Masters. He had qualified to play at Augusta National because he was a member of the 1986 World Amateur team. He played a Tuesday practice round with Jack Nicklaus, who was defending his 18th major championship. He gave Andrade advice throughout the round. "At the 12th hole, [Nicklaus] told me, regardless of where the pin is, always just hit it at the bunker in the back."

Playing with the King: Andrade was paired with Arnold Palmer in the first round of the Masters in 1987, the same year he played the practice round with Nicklaus. He had already thanked him for the college education. "He was proud to see one of his guys having success," said Andrade. "He had a bad knee, and I beat him by nine shots, but he got a standing ovation at all 18 greens. It was a memorable day."

Playing with the Tiger: It was the 2000 Bay Hill Invitational. Andrade was paired with Tiger Woods and they teed off on the back nine. On the 13th hole, their fourth hole of the day, Andrade believes Woods used the infamous "stinger" (a low-flying shot, usually off the tee and with a 3-wood) for the first time in competition. "He hit this thing they call the 'stinger.' It never got higher than five feet off the ground and it went 260 yards. I just stood there in awe. I stood there so long Ziggy had to say to me, 'Hey Billy, you're up.' I had never seen a shot like that in my life."

Last week, in the first round of the Viking Classic, Andrade shot a 74. He doubled the second hole of his second round to go to four over par with 16 holes to try and make his 368th career cut. Sometimes good old-fashioned guts can also equal made cuts. Andrade finished with two bogeys and nine birdies for a two-day total of three under par--tied for 50th place and eight off the lead going into the weekend.

To Be Continued.

Part 2: The Politician, Governor Haley Barbour.

Part 3: The Musician, Paul Overstreet.


--Matty G.


Filed Under

Comparing Lists of Great Golf

The only thing better than a list is comparing lists.

Paging through Celebrated Living (the magazine published by American Airlines), I came across their list of "Top 20 Golf Courses in the U.S."

For the purpose of this blog entry, I'm going to show you their top 10 (which are public), Golf Digest's Top 10 on the America's 100 Greatest Public list and then the top 10 public courses that I've played so far as the Travel Editor (it has almost been a year).


According to the editors at Celebrated Living:

No. 10: Whistling Straits (Straits Course) in Haven, Wis. It's going to host the 2010 and 2015 PGA Championships as well as the 2020 Ryder Cup.

No. 9: Cog Hill No. 4 in Lemont, Ill. It's being re-done by Rees Jones and Greg Muirhead.

No. 8: Kapalua G.C. (Plantation)
on Maui. It's the home of the Mercedes Championship, the season opener of the PGA Tour.

No. 7: Blackwolf Run (River Course)
in Kohler, Wis. This makes two in their top 10 for "Destination Kohler."

No. 6: Spyglass Hill G.C. in Pebble Beach, Calif. Celebrated Living says, "One tough cookie from Robert Trent Jones, Sr."

No. 5: Harbour Town Golf Links on Hilton Head Island, S.C. "Almost 40 years after his famed Harbour Town opened, Pete Dye returned to the Sea Pines Resort to create the new Heron Point."

No. 4: Mauna Kea G.C. in Kohala Coast, Hawaii. Rees Jones is renovating his father's work and will be re-opened next spring.

No. 3: Pinehurst Resort & C.C. (No. 2) in Pinehurst, N.C. Most recently, this was where 18-year-old Danny Lee of New Zealand became the youngest winner in U.S. Amateur history in August. He made 13 birdies in 32 holes.

No. 2: Torrey Pines (South) in La Jolla, Calif. Hosted a tour event, The Buick Invitational, and the Golf Digest Challenge. Oh, and the U.S. Open. Obviously a good golf course but seems in way over its' head on a list of best 10 public courses in the U.S.

No. 1: Pebble Beach Golf Links in Calif. Pebble, on the other hand, is comfortable with the lead on any list. The U.S. Open will be back there in 2010.


According to Golf Digest:

No. 10: Arcadia Bluffs G.C. in Arcadia, Mich. The Digest raters put seven Michigan courses in the top 40. They say Arcadia Bluffs is the best of the bunch.

No. 9: The Prince Course in Princeville on Kauai, Hawaii. Another state loaded with good golf but this Robert Trent Jones, Jr. is the best of the public options.

No. 8: The Ocean Course on Kiawah Island, S.C. Mark McCumber rebuilt this course in 1995. I haven't played it yet but it's on my priority list (see below).

No. 7: Bandon Dunes in Bandon, Ore. The first of what will be four good golf courses within three minutes of each other. The new fourth course, Old Macdonald, is on its way.

No. 6: Shadow Creek in North Las Vegas, Nev. Home of high rollers and big spenders. I'm not either one.

No. 5: Bethpage State Park (Black) in Farmingdale, N.Y.  The Black hosted the U.S. Open in 2002 and gets it again in 2009. This is more my speed. It's very public, good and inexpensive.

No. 4: Whistling Straits (Straits Course) in Haven, Wis. Just like Spyglass and Bethpage Black, they kick your ego in the crotch and they'll make you want to quit the game--for a day or two.

No. 3: Pinehurst Resort & C.C. (No. 2) in Pinehurst, N.C. Finishes third on both lists.

No. 2: Pacific Dunes in Bandon, Ore. This makes two courses from Bandon Dunes in Digest's top 10, none in CL's top 10. American Airlines needs to fly more golfers to Oregon.

No. 1: Pebble Beach Golf Links in Calif. Not bad to be the best on both lists. The tee shot at the 7th hole is good, but I like the approach shot at No. 8 better.


My Top 10 that I've played in the last 10 months:

Top_3 No. 11: Pinehurst Resort & C.C. (No. 2)
. It gets a little old, for me, when I hit a good approach shot and it lands on the green, and then it starts to roll off the green. And then it keeps rolling...and rolling...and rolling. How many times in one round can you yell, "Stop! STOP!!!"  I'm putting it on my top 10 list, but it comes it at No. 11. Young Danny Lee, with your barrage of birdies, you are my hero.

No. 10: The Classic at Madden's Resort in Brainerd, Minn. You know a woman is beautiful when her looks hold up sans make-up. The Classic needs no make-up. Scott Hoffman just had to clear some trees and cut some grass. Now I just need to figure out how to justify a trip back to Minnesota to play more golf.

No. 9: Old White at the Greenbrier in White Sulphur Springs, W.V. Lester George redid the work of C.B. Macdonald and Seth Raynor. It was the Best New Public Remodel of 2007 according to Golf Digest. I was just there and I would've kept playing in the dark with glow a glow ball if they would've let me.

No. 8: PGA West (TPC Stadium)
in La Quinta, Calif. I have a love/hate relationship with Pete Dye. I love him on the first tee--hate him on the 18th green.

No. 7: Sea Island G.C. (Seaside)
on St. Simons Island, Ga. As I wrote in my Away Game on Sea Island, I love Tom Fazio and this is the best of his bunch. He redid an original Harry S. Colt and Charles Alison design in 1999.

No. 6: Pine Needles Lodge and G.C.
in Southern Pines, N.C. Another course I didn't want to stop playing. My pre-round impromptu lesson with teaching legend Peggy Kirk Bell helped my score and my experience. Ms. Bell, I may be back down in the winter for a refresher on how to roll that left wrist.

No. 5: Kapalua G.C. (Plantation)
. I caught it on a perfect day (only a little wind, lots of sun). I appreciated the views and felt the back nine gets all the buzz, but the front nine is just as good. I also had my best round of the year (so far), so I'm sure that helped the Plantation's place on my list.

No. 4: Pebble Beach Golf Links
in Calif. I get it--Pebble is (one of) the best. I just don't like paying $500, putting on punched greens, getting a bad caddie and having trucks pull in front of my tee shot at 16 and cars stop behind me at my tee shot at 17. I'm sorry, but with that kind of price tag comes a high level of expectation and my last Pebble experience came up a little short. Back to No. 4 on my list.

No. 3: Spyglass Hill G.C.
in Pebble Beach, Calif. So much is said about how tough it is, not enough is said about how great it is. This is a litmus test of golf. A round at Spyglass will expose any and all weaknesses in your game. My list was long.

No. 2: Pasatiempo Golf Club in Santa Cruz, Calif. I wrote it a few months ago for the magazine and I stand by it. I'm putting Pasatiempo in the same class as Pebble and Spyglass. Tom Doak just finished a 10-year restoration of an original Alister Mackenzie. You don't have the views you get at Pebble but you get great golf and an extra $300 in your pocket to spend on a replay round and beers at the bar of the Hollins House.

No. 1: Pacific Dunes
in Bandon, Ore. In a word: It doesn't get any better than Pacific Dunes (except for Turnberry in Scotland).

The courses just missing my list but stay close to my heart: Bandon Dunes, Bandon Trails, Chambers Bay, the Quarry at Giants Ridge, Doral's Blue Monster, Pinehurst No. 4 and No. 8.

My priority list for the next 10 months: The Straits and the Irish course at Whistling Straits, Bethpage Black, the River at Blackwolf Run, the Ocean Course on Kiawah Island, Harbour Town, Arcadia Bluffs and Forest Dunes in Michigan, TPC Sawgrass and the Prince Course on Kauai.

I know, I know. Tough job--right?

--Matty G.

9/11: Remembering A Forgettable Day

I'm taking a short break from true travel and writing a little long this time. I realize a lot has been written about 9/11, and by much better writers than I am. I also realize a lot has been written about Davis Sezna and his family's loss that day. This is a portion of my story about 9/11, how I met Davis Sezna and a recent round we shared at Bayonne Golf Club in New Jersey with the man who built Bayonne, Eric Bergstol. And it's a story about Deeg.

911 Davis "Deeg" Sezna Jr. had been on the job for a few days. He ran around the 104th floor of the South Tower of the World Trade Center with a pair of binoculars. A recent graduate of Vanderbilt, he was excitable, as most of us are at that point in our life. He directed his colleagues to the golf course across the Hudson River being built by his dad's friend.

His father was Davis Sezna, his father's friend building the golf course was Eric Bergstol. Deeg (pronounced Deej) was working at Sandler O'Neil and the golf course he could see with his view-finders was Bayonne Golf Club, located on the water in New Jersey, only four miles as the crow files from the southern tip of Manhattan. Construction, on the course that would eventually open in July 2006, was underway, and Deeg was showing off the progress.

Only a few days later, on a clear bright blue Tuesday morning, Sept. 11, 2001, Sezna Sr. and Bergstol were playing golf together at Pine Hill Golf Club in New Jersey. After they finished the sixth hole, Sezna received word about two planes crashing into the World Trade Center. Sezna left immediately.

At this point, I didn't know Davis Sezna. I didn't know he had lost his youngest son, Teddy, in a boating accident 14 months before 9/11. I didn't know he was in the inner circle of golf--a member at Pine Valley, Seminole, Merion, the R&A and Mid Ocean. I was working as the golf photo editor for Sports Illustrated at the time.

While Sezna spent the day navigating the craziness and trying to contact his son, I was making my way to Bethlehem, Penn. with five colleagues. Sports Illustrated writer Jack McCallum, was hosting an annual company golf tournament and six of us had rented a van to get there. Without going into too much detail, we left the city and we saw the towers burning from across the river. We watched the news coverage all day from McCallum's living room floor. We stayed at a hotel that night near Bethlehem. We came back to the city the next day and both towers were gone.

I'll never forget three things. As a small group of us gathered at our meeting place, the golf course, we were failing to wrap our arms around the implications and enormity of the situation that was unfolding back in Manhattan. Bill Nack, another SI writer, said, "The world has changed before our eyes. The world has just changed forever." He was right.

As we drove the van back to the city the next day, I couldn't believe we could smell the destruction about 40 miles from Ground Zero. A smell unlike anything I've ever smelled before or since.

I'll also never forget thinking I didn't know anyone who worked in the towers. And then I got a call from a friend who told me Ward Haynes was missing.

Haynes was the golf photo editor at Sports Illustrated before I was, and he trained me to do his job before he left SI to go to the world of bonds, gas and finance. He had remained a close friend and called me, "Matty-kid." He always said it twice. "Matty-kid, Matty-kid." An athlete, a very good golfer, a husband and a father of three. He had accepted a job at Cantor Fitzgerald two weeks before 9/11 and I didn't realize their offices were on the 101st floor of the North Tower.

So now it was September 12, 2001 and I was dropping off guys at their apartments. At one point we stopped for a convoy of military vehicles. The city was a war zone. It was surreal to say the least and the smell, now only a few miles from the chaos, was horrific. I also remember the city was so quiet. Not even cab drivers were using their horns.

Back at my apartment on the Upper East Side of the city, I got a call from the golf editor. Sports Illustrated decided to publish a magazine that week. The issue would feature a story about each sport and how it was affected by the events of 9/11. Michael Bamberger would be the writer of the golf story. Sezna, his deep ties to the game and his search for Deeg, would be the subject.

Any journalistic matter in my system was on shutdown. I was having a hard time understanding how Sezna was a sports story, how this was a golf story, why this belonged in Sports Illustrated.

My boss told me to call Sezna, a stranger, and ask if a photographer could follow him around Ground Zero and the surrounding hospitals as he looked for his son. We needed pictures to go with the story.

That was the last thing I wanted to do. A part of me and my heart feared the worst for Haynes, who had left a message on my work voice-mail the night before congratulating me on taking my new job at Golf Digest. The rest of me was still in shock.

I shelved my emotions. Out of respect for the people and the magazine I worked for, I made the phone call. It was my job for at least another two weeks.

When Sezna answered the phone, I immediately prefaced everything by saying I could not begin to grasp what he was going through. I remember telling him I'd understand if he hung up on me at any point during our conversation.

Sezna never hung up. He quietly told me to have the photographer call him. He was aware of the story that was being written and, given the circumstances, he'd cooperate best he could. I'll never forget how easy he made that call on me.

Unfortunately Deeg Sezna and Ward Haynes both lost their lives on 9/11.

Thankfully, by way of a round of golf at Seminole in Florida a few years later, I got to know Sezna under much different circumstances. I learned very quickly that being gracious, selfless, and one of the game's best storytellers, is a big part of what defines him. He's a man's man and the ideal golf partner.

It's amazing because a guy who has experienced such tremendous loss in life, two out of three sons, no one would blame him if he curled up in the corner of a padded room. And yet, spend a day with Sezna, and all he does is make everyone around him feel like they're welcome, a member of the gang--and everyone laughs.

Spin forward to Bayonne G.C. two months ago. I was in a game on a steamy, sticky summer day in the northeast. Again, I was a guest of Sezna's, and our third was Bergstol. It's rare, but very cool to say, "I love this hole" and have your playing partner, the guy who built the course say, "Thank you."

Early in the round, with the innocent question, "How do you guys know each other?" I learned Sezna and Bergstol met in 1995 because a common friend said they should. Bergstol is tall and Sezna is small but the men meet somewhere at respect and admiration for one another. "I don't usually warm up to tall and lanky," said Sezna. "It turns out we were both raised by kick-ass dads."

Late in the round at Bayonne the conversation eventually made its' way back to their round of golf on 9/11.

Over a beer at Bayonne's 19th hole, Bergstol told me that shortly after I spoke to Sezna on Sept 12, 2001, he received a call from Sezna. He was updating Bergstol about his plan to search for Deeg. Sezna asked Bergstol if he had any suggestions about where he should go, which hospitals he might try. "I remember I couldn't say anything," says Bergstol. No words came out. So Sezna asked again. "I still couldn't say anything. I couldn't speak."

On the other end of the phone, Sezna, knowing his friend was struggling with the situation, once again was gracious and selfless and filled the silence. "Hey, don't think I forgot that I birdied the sixth hole yesterday," Sezna said to Bergstol. "You owe me five bucks."

At Bayonne G.C., as Bergstol was telling me the story, both Sezna and Bergstol got tears in their eyes. "That's the kind of guy Davis is," said Bergstol. "I'll never forget that. He did that for me." At that point they shared a spontaneous hug that included a tight squeeze and a lot of back thumping. In a way it was awkward for me, but I was also honored to be there and appreciated the moment for what it was. Male bonding and some sense of healing almost seven years later.

Bergstol has built several courses, but Bayonne G.C. is bigger and better than the rest. It's an example of a well-executed vision, lots of money, perseverance, time, energy and landfill.

The highest point of the property used to be 10 feet. After 7.5 million cubic yards of mud, dug-up from the bottom of the river and three years of shaping it into a golf course, Bergstol has a true links-style layout. The bright white clubhouse, which looks like a lighthouse, sits at the top and in the middle of the property and is at an elevation of 96 feet. There are parts of the course that are over 100 feet, which gives you a sense of just how much landfill we're talking about. It was Sezna who urged Bergstol to put the clubhouse where it is now. "It's like Cindy Crawford," says Sezna. "It looks good from every angle."

Like a center of a wheel, the course spokes out around the clubhouse. If you're not a fan of watching the planes land on the Hudson River, watching barges bring containers of goods in and out of the New York Harbor, a decent view of the back of Lady Liberty, the New York City skyline or various aspects of what you see of New Jersey, then the clubhouse is always there as an impressive form of visual relief.

When Bergstol speaks about Bayonne G.C. there's a quiet pride in his voice. As if he could care less whether or not you like it, that he knows it's special, and that if you don't appreciate it, it's your loss. He has close to 300 members who must agree with him and his vision--they've paid $200,000 to join. He'd like to eventually have 250 domestic members and 250 international members. He said there were roughly 9,000 rounds played last year. He figures 12,000 rounds will be played this year. He'd like to cap it at 20,000 rounds per year.

My thoughts on Bayonne G.C.? I like it. It's a par 72, tips out at 7,160 yards. It has a 74.4 course rating and a 143 slope (which means it's hard, especially when the wind blows). I enjoyed the back nine more than the front nine. I didn't need to hit driver until the sixth hole, and I was only using it there because I was going for the green off the tee on a short par 4. Holes 11 through 18 are a fantastic finish. My favorite hole is No. 12 (442-yard, par 4); standing on the tee, there is so much to look at. I also enjoyed the 10-degree temperature drop as you get close to the water.

Not only is it an efficient use of landfill, for the wealthy and successful, it's a huge advantage to have it be accessible from New York City by boat, helicopter, car and train. The club can arrange for a ferry to pick you up from Manhattan and drop you off at the dock Bergstol built behind the 16th green. There's a helipad, the path train to New Jersey from Penn Station, and it took me 30 minutes to drive the 12 miles from the east side of the city. The driving range is unique. You hit floating golf balls at targets in the water. The food is delicious. The clubhouse is impressive, inside and out.

I was fascinated by the massive American flag that hangs from a 150-foot pole right next to the clubhouse. This Old Glory is 40-feet high, 70-feet wide, and dances around in a stiff wind. You can see it and hear it snap throughout the round. It makes the same noise a bed sheet makes when you pull it up before you tuck in the corner, but it's a lot louder.

"How much does a flag like that cost?" I asked Bergstol. "I don't know," he replied. "Maybe four or five thousand dollars. Maybe a little more."

"Why did you make it so big?"

"I thought it was pathetic, as you come into the New York Harbor, you don't see an American flag--I fixed that," said Bergstol.

And then Bergstol brought it all back to young Deeg Sezna, his view from his office, 9/11 and a sense of perspective.

"I also wanted to make sure Deeg doesn't need binoculars to see the golf course any more."

In May, when they finished the clubhouse at Bayonne G.C., Bergstol had a ceremony--the American flag was raised in the name of Deeg Sezna.

--Matty G.

GD Ambush IX--Are You Next?

Ambush_8_2 Another month--another Ambush. I'm back from St. George, Utah where I met up with Sam Jones and his band of Roadrunners. You can read about their organization skills and their 27-page program in the November issue.

We've had over 1,350 itineraries entered so far. Thanks again for supporting this concept. To join up with a buddies trip is almost as fun as being on one of my own. I say "almost" because nothing beats Baywood, GinellaFFL draft weekend, an every-so-often trip to Ireland or the "Riva" with G-Russ.

One of these itineraries will be Ambush No. 9, featured in the December issue of Golf Digest:

From Frank Morris of Guelph, Ontario:
We're going to Scotland. We're playing Lundin Links, Carnoustie, Castle Course at St. Andrews, Turnberry, Muirfield and North Berwick. We have 16 guys ranging in age from early 30's to early 70's. Handicaps from scratch to 20 with two ex-NHL players and many friendships from growing up in Guelph. Boasting rights to be earned. All golf arrangements, travel and travel accommodations have been done ourselves through research, reading and email exchange. All we need is a little weather and a pub or two to try a fine scotch. We think it will be a cool story. Cheers.

From Larry Goff of Hockessin, Delaware: We're simply living the dream. For the last 19 years my foursome's first order of business every year is to schedule THE VACATION. No Einstein, not the family vacation at the beach, not the week of quality time with the wives, but THE GOLF TRIP with the boys. Lets be clear, we are not brain-dead masochists, of course we would never tell our wives that THE GOLF TRIP is the highlight of the year, our only escape from the burdens of life, and it's non-negotiable (but it truly is). Print that if you dare. Our 2008 trip will be our fourth year in the best kept secret in golf--Lake Tahoe. Playing in the air of the Sierra Mountains has been so exhilarating. We now know how Al Bundy felt when he escaped to the sanctity of the "Nudey", how Ralph Cramden and Ed Norton felt at the Raccoon Lodge, the sense of peace experienced by Fred Flintstone and Barney Rubble at the Loyal Order of the Water Buffalo Lodge No. 26. Heaven on earth it is my friend, and this year will be the best ever as we will celebrate our 20th year of week-long bliss. We will start our journey by arriving at the Sacramento airport at high noon. Anyone looking for us is instructed to look for the four very non-athletic guys (nerdy actually, as we are all chemists) toting extremely heavy and large oblong duffle-type bags with surprising ease. Be sure to join us at the Darkhorse Golf Club in Auburn in the afternoon as we start with our annual Big Bedroom match, where it will be determined which team gets the palatial digs of the bedrooms with the Jacuzzi, deck and lake view and which team is destined to get real comfy in a broom-closet sized laundry room, complete with bunk beds. We're playing: Darkhorse ($54), Dayton Valley/Sunridge ($95), Grizzly Ranch ($120), Timlick ($90), Whitehawk ($105), Redhawk ($75), and Incline Village ($199).         

From Judith Hoffman of Richmond, Virginia: Twelve women, all meeting in Atlanta for our fourth annual golf trip. Imagine trying to get 12 schedules together with kids, jobs and husbands, etc. We all know how much we need our "girly time" and make a point of getting this special break once a year. We will be staying at Hawk's Ridge Golf Club in Ball Ground, Georgia for three days of golf. This group is way too much fun and I dare you to show up. Be warned! Love to have you come. Can't think of a better surprise to give this wonderful group of women.

If I don't meet up with you this year, maybe next yearâ¿¿

--Matty G.

In-Flight and On-line

Gone is the excuse, "Sorry for the delay in getting back to you, I was on a plane."

The news today is not that my luggage and sticks are in the belly of a big bird and I'm going from one coast to another--travel is my bag.

Aaflight3 The news is the fact that I'm posting this blog while my tray-table is down, my seat is as far back as the hinges will hold, my cup of coffee is sharing very limited space with my laptop as I skip across the country at a cruising altitude of 33,000 feet. I didn't get the upgrade but I finagled some more legroom by way of an exit row (a poor man's upgrade).

August 3,2008 - AA flight 3 (JFK to LA), I became a member of gogoinflight.com. I created a user name, password, punched in my credit card info and for $12 and change, I'm on-line.

The World Wide Web is now available as an in-flight service.

It's bad news for newsstand sales of newspapers, books and magazines. As for following sports, draft prep for my fantasy football league, updating my music library on iTunes, access to e-mail and getting some work done--it's all good news.

I recommend a power cord to your computer that plugs into the outlet under your seat (I find them on American Airlines more than the other carriers I fly).

Pardon me while I click over to CBSSportsline to finalize the answer key to my draft day. With the ninth pick of a 12 man league I'm looking at Romo or Brees to lead me to my third title in the 19th year of the Ginella Brothers FFL. (Keep that tidbit of info between us.)

Safe, and much more efficient, travels.

--Matty G.






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