Having spent half a billion dollars, Cook and his investors employ more than 50 percent of the population of the two towns: "The properties were purchased to restore the buildings and grounds, to preserve history and to generate financial resources if possible," says Cook, who's worth an estimated $3.5 billion and can afford to take some chances. "The intent is to keep the resorts as a valuable company asset for future generations to enjoy."
And there's plenty to enjoy. The French Lick Resort, a castle-like structure across the street from the 286-student high school, is the site of the new casino. (A referendum was passed in 2003 by a 3-to-1 margin, making gambling legal.) I enjoyed my stay at the West Baden Springs Hotel, a meal at Sinclair's (the nicest restaurant in town) and talking basketball with Bird's old coach.
I wouldn't hesitate to go back because the town is full of wonderful, hospitable people like Holland, and I loved the Ross layout, which is where Bird caddied as a kid. (He once called it his favorite place to play.) It costs $115 on weekends, with a $20 replay rate. The fairways are more generous than Dye's, and the classic Ross green complexes are always challenging to putt. It was the runner-up for Golf Digest's Best Remodel of 2007. The Valley Links course ($35), good for couples and kids, has been converted to nine holes, and Cook built an indoor-outdoor learning center.
If you can afford to play the Dye course and make the trip, ask around for the old coach no longer using the push-mower. Holland is a quiet guy, but he loves to talk basketball and the effective offense he used in '74, back when he had Bird. "All I did was get him on the bus and get him to the game," says Holland. "He did the rest."
LOCAL KNOWLEDGE
WET AND WILD
Big Splash Adventure opened in April. It has four major water slides and a 154-room hotel. The water park (bigsplashadventure.com) features a retractable roof and is open every day of the year. "It's between 82 and 85 degrees in here at all times," says owner Carolyn Fuhs. "We're almost as good as Maui."
'BRICK 33'
The sports bar on Brick Road is named for Larry Bird's jersey number and features live music and a display case of the French Lick native's trophies and NBA championship rings.
THE HOUSE THAT BIRD BUILT
The doors are always open at the Springs Valley High School gym on Larry Bird Boulevard. John (Butch) Emmons, the athletic director, says it gets up to 1,000 visitors a year. Emmons might even let you shoot around.
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