The young award-winning chef at Fairmont's Las Brisas, Luis Lujan, puts on a culinary show. Lobster from the Riviera Maya and a tender filet make up a classic combo of surf and turf. Who knew mint foam went so well with an artichoke salad? The homemade blackberry sorbet was even better than it sounds. After five courses I was full and in need of a post-meal walk. Unfortunately, the distance between the restaurant and my room was too far, so I jumped a golf cart back.
Casa del Lago restaurant/Photo by Bjorn Iooss
Mayakoba's two resorts are on 1,600 acres. I navigated the twisty paths through the Fairmont using the community bicycle service during the day. Without GPS, I was left to the ancient device of asking for directions on more than one occasion. "It's easy to get lost here," said an empathetic employee. "It's not the margaritas." Golf-cart shuttles were a better choice than bikes after dark (especially after some margaritas). To get around Rosewood, you can use golf-cart shuttles or ride in wooden motor boats through man-made canals.
As I checked out of the Rosewood, I saw Arnold Schwarzenegger, Maria Shriver and their kids checking in. Back through the gates of the two swanky golf resorts and on my grainy way to the airport, I smiled at the thought of a corrupt cop trying to take a bribe from the Terminator.
Moon Spa & Golf Club/Photo by Bjorn Iooss
LOCAL KNOWLEDGE
OVER THE MOON
There is more good golf along the highway between Mayakoba and the Cancun airport. I picked a Nicklaus Signature course, Moon Spa & Golf Club (above), another big resort off the strip. There are three nines, but I played only the Dunes and Jungle for $260. (The Lakes was closed for maintenance.) The Dunes takes up more open space and plays longer than the Jungle. Both nines feature that Nicklaus trademark of a reachable, short par 4.
SENSE OF PLACE
Most spas at high-end resorts have the art of pure physical bliss figured out. The Sense spa at the Rosewood takes it to a different level than the competition. It's on an island surrounding a cenote, and all guests have unlimited access to the saunas, Jacuzzis and relaxation stations.
PLAYING AT PLAYA
If there's not enough food and shopping for you inside the gates of Mayakoba, go 15 minutes down to the town of Playa del Carmen. "The atmosphere is neat," Funk says. "The roads are closed throughout the town. It's great for food and shopping, and it felt very safe." The resorts will drop you off and pick you up.
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