I spent another night at Carmel Valley Ranch, which has the only Pete Dye course in Northern California. At a cost of about $12 million, the clubhouse, golf course and a portion of the resort have all been renovated in the last two years. The front nine is still flat, short, tight and not especially memorable. The back nine is cut into the hills, with round-stopping views of the valley. Elevated tee boxes and blind shots to elevated greens leave you wondering how these two nines can be on the same scorecard.
The bar and wine cellar at Citronelle, the new restaurant at Carmel Valley Ranch.
The spacious suites, the updated atmosphere and the food are the real reasons to stay at Carmel Valley Ranch, which can be less expensive than Pebble Beach Resort. The restaurant, Citronelle, absorbed a lot of the time and expense. During the renovation, it was closed for a year, then reopened in January with a modern motif and an evening scene that is drawing the attention of picky locals. The presentation of the meal makes you want to take a picture. Don't leave without trying the apple-tart dessert.
The next time I'm in town I'll try staying at the Inn at Pasatiempo. It borders the course, offers stay-and-play packages, and Peachwood's Steakhouse is off the lobby. For me, there's no debate: Pasatiempo is in the same league as Pebble and Spyglass.
Map: Jason Lee
1. PASATIEMPO (★★★★½) $200, pasatiempo.com, 831-459-9155
2. SPYGLASS (★★★★★) $330, pebblebeach.com
3. PEBBLE BEACH (★★★★★) $495, 800-654-9300
4. CARMEL VALLEY RANCH
(★★★★) $215, carmelvalleyranch.com, 831-625-9500
★ Star listings from 1 to 5 are derived from readers' Best Places To Play ratings. For more information click on underlined course names above.
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